Located in Xochiaca, Mexico, the cemetery of ancient Xochiaca serves as a testament to the enduring craftsmanship of the stone carvers of Chimalhuacan.
Despite being engulfed by the sprawling urban landscape of Mexico City, the village has managed to preserve its rich heritage by continuing to practice a craft that has been passed down through generations.
Every Sunday, the air is filled with the resonating sound of hammers and chisels striking stone, as these skilled artisans meticulously shape and carve statues of saints, each standing at an impressive yard-high (meter-high).
The cemetery itself is a captivating sight, adorned with these intricately carved stone figures, while a group of dedicated men can be seen skillfully coaxing flower garlands and delicate blossoms out of the solid blocks of stone, using their chisels as their tools of creation.
Despite the depletion of the local quarry stone, the stone carvers of Chimalhuacan remain resolute in their commitment to their craft, ensuring that their artistry and traditions endure for years to come.
For generations, the skilled stone carvers of Chimalhuacan, located on Mexico City’s far east side, have been responsible for crafting exquisite stonework that embellishes the buildings and parks of the capital’s bustling downtown.
These talented artisans have honed their craft through years of dedication and practice, passing down their expertise from one generation to the next.
Their intricate carvings, meticulously chiseled into the stone, showcase not only their immense talent but also their deep connection to the rich cultural heritage of Mexico.
The stonework they create serves as a testament to their unwavering commitment to preserving and promoting the traditional artistry that has defined their community for centuries.
As visitors wander through the bustling streets of Mexico City’s downtown, they are greeted by the awe-inspiring beauty of these masterfully crafted stone pieces, each one a testament to the skill and artistry of the stone carvers of Chimalhuacan.
In an era where carvers in various regions have embraced the efficiency of mechanical cutters and polishers, the craftsmen in this particular area remain steadfast in their commitment to traditional methods, relying solely on hammers, mallets, and an assortment of chisels and gouges.
While some of these artisans are self-taught, others, like the venerable Tomás Ugarte, aged 86, have been fortunate enough to learn the craft through the time-honored tradition passed down by their fathers and grandfathers, a lineage that spans approximately five generations.
However, the demographics of this group have shifted towards an older age bracket in recent years. A decade ago, there were approximately 600 registered stone carvers, but according to Carolina Montesinos Mendoza, the director of the Mexico State office that supports artisans, the number has dwindled to an estimated 300.
The dwindling numbers can be attributed to the unfortunate reality that these skilled carvers are gradually passing away, and their children, for the most part, are uninterested in carrying on the trade.
Despite the encroachment of urbanization, with the once-thriving Xochiaca now enveloped within a labyrinth of city streets, these dedicated craftsmen persevere in keeping the ancient traditions alive.
The impact of their work extends beyond their own community, as many residents rely on the stone mortars and pestles meticulously handcrafted by these artisans.
Known as “molcajetes” in Spanish, these bowl-like grinders serve as the indispensable tool for creating the flavorful salsas that are an integral part of Mexican cuisine.
In an era characterized by the widespread adoption of mechanical cutters and polishers among carvers in various regions, the craftsmen in this particular area remain unwavering in their commitment to traditional methods.
They rely solely on age-old tools such as hammers, mallets, and an assortment of chisels and gouges, eschewing the convenience and efficiency offered by modern technology.
While some of these artisans are self-taught, others, like the venerable Tomás Ugarte, aged 86, have been fortunate enough to learn the craft through the time-honored tradition passed down by their fathers and grandfathers, a lineage that spans approximately five generations.
However, the demographics of this group have undergone a noticeable shift towards an older age bracket in recent years.
A decade ago, there were approximately 600 registered stone carvers, but according to Carolina Montesinos Mendoza, the director of the Mexico State office that supports artisans, the number has dwindled to an estimated 300.
This decline can be attributed to the unfortunate reality that these skilled carvers are gradually passing away, and their children, for the most part, are uninterested in carrying on the trade.
Despite the encroachment of urbanization, with the once-thriving Xochiaca now enveloped within a labyrinth of city streets, these dedicated craftsmen persevere in their noble endeavor to keep the ancient traditions alive.
Their work extends far beyond their own community, as many residents rely on the stone mortars and pestles meticulously handcrafted by these artisans.
Known as “molcajetes” in Spanish, these bowl-like grinders serve as the indispensable tool for creating the flavorful salsas that are an integral part of Mexican cuisine.
The preservation of these traditional methods not only ensures the continued availability of these essential culinary tools but also serves as a testament to the rich cultural heritage and artistic legacy of this region.
It is through the unwavering dedication and unwavering commitment of these craftsmen that the ancient art of stone carving remains a vibrant and cherished aspect of Mexican culture.
In contrast to many artisans who aspire to showcase their creations in prestigious museums, the dedicated carvers in this particular community selflessly devote their time and skills to the creation and upkeep of intricate carvings that adorn the local cemetery.
Notably, their craftsmanship is exemplified by the presence of a commanding 20-foot (6-meter) stone Christ figure, alongside European-inspired sculptures depicting the 12 apostles.
Astonishingly, these artisans undertake these endeavors without any monetary compensation. Moreover, their unwavering commitment extends to embellishing and maintaining the stonework at the venerable parish church, Santa María de Guadalupe, which boasts a rich history spanning 250 years.
Within the confines of this sacred space, the carvers have meticulously crafted altar screens, columns, and statues of Christ and the Virgin Mary, standing at an impressive height of 10 feet (3 meters).
Evidently, the legacy of these skilled craftsmen can be traced back to earlier generations, as evidenced by a carved stone embedded in the churchyard floor, bearing the inscription “Xochiaca, home of the stone carvers,” albeit devoid of any specific date.
During this era, characterized by the presence of a vast lake that once encompassed a significant portion of the valley, the shores of Xochiaca were continuously caressed by its gentle waves.
It was a time when builders, driven by their insatiable desire for artistic treasures, would embark on expeditions to this region in search of extraordinary carvings.
These skilled craftsmen would meticulously extract these invaluable artifacts from their natural surroundings, recognizing their immense cultural and historical significance.
To transport these precious findings to their final destination in Mexico City, an intricate system of barges was devised, navigating the intricate network of waterways that crisscrossed the lake’s expanse.
These barges would carefully ferry the carvings, ensuring their safe arrival in the bustling metropolis. This period stands as a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the people of that time, who recognized the importance of preserving and celebrating their rich heritage through the acquisition and transportation of these remarkable carvings.
Juan Alfaro Bastidas, a 75-year-old artisan, hails from a long lineage of carvers, following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather before him.
His recollections transport us to a bygone era, where he vividly remembers venturing into the quarries under the soft glow of candlelight, laboriously extracting blocks of stone.
However, the once bustling quarries have now faded into the annals of history. The land on which they once thrived has been relinquished to make way for housing developments, leaving only remnants of their existence.
Interestingly, some of the newcomers to the area have embraced the remnants of the quarry, finding solace in their rustic charm and repurposing the quarry walls as unique architectural features within their homes.
Nevertheless, in order to continue their age-old craft, the carvers are now compelled to transport stone from other states, primarily from the north and west, and occasionally even from as far as the southern state of Yucatan.
Thus, the legacy of stone carving lives on, albeit in a different form, as Juan and his fellow artisans adapt to the changing times and challenges that lie before them.
The survival of a trade often relies on the support and contributions of various entities, and in the case of the artisans in this town, they receive some assistance from both the local government and the residents.
Donations, ranging from 100 to 200 pesos ($6 to $12), have been graciously given by the neighbors, demonstrating their willingness to lend a helping hand.
Additionally, the people of the town actively participate in sustaining the trade by purchasing the stone crafted by these skilled carvers. It is through these combined efforts that the artistry and cultural heritage of this community are preserved.
When asked about the future of their trade, carver Mario Olivares responded with a poignant recitation of a poem, etched by the artisans themselves on the church wall.
This poem serves as a reminder of the profound impact that their art, tradition, and culture have on the very essence and vitality of this town.